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  1. #1
    Moderator bob109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbird View Post
    My problem was getting the longer Purolator filter to clear the cowl in order to screw onto the oil standpipe.
    My next oil change, when I put my bike away for the winter, I'll try again with the longer Purolator, this time using my centre stand. Maybe I'll have the required wiggle room then to screw on the longer filter.

    BTW, I've decided to forego Rotella T6 in my F6B. I'm currently using Honda GN-4 10W-40, and then Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle synthetic for winter layup.
    I just have trouble using non-motorcycle specific oil in an expensive engine and trans with a wet clutch. Yes, I used Rotella T6 in my Silverwing over 5 years, but it didn't have a wet clutch. I'm sure Rotella T6 would be just fine, as many are using it successfully, but I'll sleep better knowing true motorcycle specific oil is in the crankcase, not diesel engine oil.
    It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will

    Logically speaking with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bike44's Avatar
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    If additional clearance is needed for oil/filter changes (?), remove the single left lower 5mm hex screw that attaches the lower fairing. Pull the plastic forward as required to access the filter and whatever. No need to remove the whole fairing. Use a filter wrench that fits the filter or slide a flexible strap over the filter.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob109 View Post
    Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will
    I'm well aware that Rotella is JASO MA rated. I'm also aware that Rotella has extra additives for ash deposit control. Does a Goldwing engine require ash deposit control? No. How does the ash deposit control additive affect the clutch? You and I don't know unless we test it scientifically. I'll spend the extra $2/liter (Canada) for Goldwing specific oil. If I could buy a sleeping pill prescription for the saved $8 then I would send them to you. It seems you are more agitated by my not using Rotella than I am.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RcBtx1999's Avatar
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    Happy Happy Happy

    Quote Originally Posted by bob109 View Post
    It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will

    Logically speaking with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby
    I like the T-6 and the Bosch 3323, but each to his own................"if it makes you happy, it tickles me plum to death", is what we say down here in GOD's Country!!!!!! After giving it careful thought I am now going to take all my motorcycle oil and go put it my Diesel Truck. Just because I can!!!!!!

  5. #5
    Senior Member SmallPasture's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wantone View Post
    U do it or let the dealer do it ? I paid $1300 that covers 3 years all factory maintenance including labor and I get priority that means I don't have to wait. When it is due I'll be the first in line. Did I do good or bad. I wud say I ride close to 10K miles a year. Considering it is F6B my annual mileage may go up.

    Also Do u use regular, semi or full synthetic oil ? Ahhh the Oil question. I dnt knw y I even asked that . It is F6B, doesn't matter. May be if it was harley then full synthetic wud show difference. Anyway just checking...
    As long as your dealer has a reputable service department, and your ride the wheels off of it, heck yeah. 10k a year would mean you would get 6 (4k) services over the 3 years...if my math is right. I try to make them lose money and bring her in enough that I'm getting free service towards the end of the 3 years...at least that's what I tell myself. I've done the service plan on the last 3 bikes and enjoyed the peace of mind that someone that knew what they were doing did the scheduled maintenance. Unlike most here on the forum I don't wrench well. I tend to break s*%t and lose the s*%t I don't break. I'm the definition of what Steve0080 said above!

    I'm sure you'll find you'll be putting more than 10k a year on it. The 6 has a very powerful draw. It'll make ya ride naked if you sit and talk to it long enough!!!! Ok, maybe that just me. Of course as I type this I realize I don't know what neck of the woods your in.

    Heck, like you said your first in line no matter when ya bring'er in...that's worth it in itself.

    ok...i'm done...so long and thanks for all the fish!
    "Great Britain's a great country, but it's not an idea ... that's how we see [America] around the world, one of the greatest ideas in human history." Bono

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