Maintenance. Self or Dealer ?

[Phantom]

Good gawd man; at 6 changes you should be nearing 50,000 miles... or you're changing way too frequently.

He is one of the first F6B owners, joined this site in Dec 2012

If he changes his oil like I do at every 5,000 miles (easy to remember) he's in the 30,000+ range

[srt8-in-largo]

Well I think he joined the right site This is turning out to be the go to F6 forum.

Maybe one of you early birds will get to the first valve adjustment soon and tell the rest of us how to do them.

[RcBtx1999]

I do all my own maintenance except tire replacements. I'll take off the wheel, but not the tire.
I save big $ by doing everything myself, but more importantly, I know it's done correctly. Of course, a shop manual is a prerequisite for this.
As for oil, Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in 5W-40 weight. As for oil filters, I waffle between Purolator Pure One, Wix, Napa Gold, and OEM. Because the lower cover must be removed to get a longer filter in there, I just stick to the stock filter size.

I agree with you on everything you wrote except you do not have to remove to lower cover for the filter. I used a rubber/plastic strap wrench on the OEM filter and put on the longer Bosch 3323 without removing any cowling whatsoever. If you use the Honda filter wrench you will need the extra room but with these little plastic rubber straps (Sears and Harbor Freight both have them) it's a snap.

[hiflyer]

An oil change is a 10 minute job. If it takes me longer than that, my dog is helping me!

[srt8-in-largo]

... 5 minutes with the help of Mr. Fumoto.

[bigbird]

My response STANDS.

The opening underneath behind the lower cowling is indeed IDENTICAL, therefore a longer oil filter will and DOES fit on the F6B. I personally looked at 3 F6B's with the longer oil filters installed and the owners had no problems installing them. As said earlier it is a little tight but doable.

As does my response. I was on the ground, using only the side stand, and it was IMPOSSIBLE for me to install a longer filter (Purolator PL14610) without removing the lower cowl. Maybe Canadian versions are different? Maybe my hands and fingers are bigger than the other guys, or the other guys were using centre stands? Or maybe I just didn't put enough effort into trying to finagle the longer filter into position? Regardless, I gave up and installed the stock OEM Honda filter. It went on easily with the lower cowl in place.

[RcBtx1999]

I qualified my response with "UNLESS" it has been re-designed by Honda . There is room on all GoldWings from 2001 - 2010.

You make a great point, since the 2012-2014 models have rectangular foglight openings in the lower cowling, it is possible that the bottom has been extended towards the rear and hence making it more difficult. I will look at a F6B in Franklin and EAT CROW if I am wrong.

Phantom-I just did it yesterday on my 2013 exactly as you stated, rubber strap wrench and all (T-6 and 3323).

[bigbird]

I agree with you on everything you wrote except you do not have to remove to lower cover for the filter. I used a rubber/plastic strap wrench on the OEM filter and put on the longer Bosch 3323 without removing any cowling whatsoever. If you use the Honda filter wrench you will need the extra room but with these little plastic rubber straps (Sears and Harbor Freight both have them) it's a snap.

My problem was getting the longer Purolator filter to clear the cowl in order to screw onto the oil standpipe.
My next oil change, when I put my bike away for the winter, I'll try again with the longer Purolator, this time using my centre stand. Maybe I'll have the required wiggle room then to screw on the longer filter.

BTW, I've decided to forego Rotella T6 in my F6B. I'm currently using Honda GN-4 10W-40, and then Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle synthetic for winter layup.
I just have trouble using non-motorcycle specific oil in an expensive engine and trans with a wet clutch. Yes, I used Rotella T6 in my Silverwing over 5 years, but it didn't have a wet clutch. I'm sure Rotella T6 would be just fine, as many are using it successfully, but I'll sleep better knowing true motorcycle specific oil is in the crankcase, not diesel engine oil.

[bob109]

My problem was getting the longer Purolator filter to clear the cowl in order to screw onto the oil standpipe.
My next oil change, when I put my bike away for the winter, I'll try again with the longer Purolator, this time using my centre stand. Maybe I'll have the required wiggle room then to screw on the longer filter.

BTW, I've decided to forego Rotella T6 in my F6B. I'm currently using Honda GN-4 10W-40, and then Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle synthetic for winter layup.
I just have trouble using non-motorcycle specific oil in an expensive engine and trans with a wet clutch. Yes, I used Rotella T6 in my Silverwing over 5 years, but it didn't have a wet clutch. I'm sure Rotella T6 would be just fine, as many are using it successfully, but I'll sleep better knowing true motorcycle specific oil is in the crankcase, not diesel engine oil.

It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will

Logically speaking with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby

[Bike44]

If additional clearance is needed for oil/filter changes (?), remove the single left lower 5mm hex screw that attaches the lower fairing. Pull the plastic forward as required to access the filter and whatever. No need to remove the whole fairing. Use a filter wrench that fits the filter or slide a flexible strap over the filter.