Kuryakyn Heal Toe Shifter... had to go

[srt8-in-largo]

I used this shifter for several thousand miles... and I really wanted to like it, but it began to severely affect my shifting. I'm sure much of this has to do with my driving style which is EXTREMELY aggressive and when I shift, I shift... fast and immediate would be a way to describe it.

The Kury shifter is a nicely made piece, very strong and sturdy, but I think this is part of the problem. It's quite heavy and there's too much mass being levered off the tranny arm... in my layman opinion... and I'm discovering the tranny arm is a bit too sensitive to work well with it. Further, there's a bit of slop in the linkage and I'm not quite sure how this affects things, if at all, but slop is not a good thing any way you slice it. Frankly I doubt if this slop is better or worse than any other heal-toe shifter out there; it's just the nature of the beast.

When I first got the 6 and installed this, it seemed to work fine. But after getting to know the bike and push it hard, the lack of precision in the heal-toe shifter appears to be problematic... for me anyway, for my driving style. I'd note, however, that I'm no pro... most of my shifts can probably be called clunky and sloppy by someone who can shift well. If I were better at pre-loading and if my coordination was better, maybe I wouldn't be having these problems but I'm not at that point in time of being better.

Below are the issues that I experienced with my heal-toe shifter. I've since removed it and am currently monitoring these issues; so far, much better.


1. 1st to 2nd missed shifts.
This happens frequently on hole-shots... quick acceleration from a standing stop. Looking for 2nd gear but finding neutral far too often to deal with.

2. Engaging neutral.
More times than not this turned into a ping-pong match where I'd skip through neutral several times before actually finding it. I think the mass of the shifter exacerbated this problem.

3. Ghost shift in the upper gears.
I had a gear change on at least one occasion that I feel was related to an "incomplete" shift... or a "soft" shift... it felt as if the shift did not result in a firm engagement which subsequently led to the tranny dropping into another gear by itself. I don't know if that makes physical sense but that's what it felt like.

[RcBtx1999]

I used this shifter for several thousand miles... and I really wanted to like it, but it began to severely affect my shifting. I'm sure much of this has to do with my driving style which is EXTREMELY aggressive and when I shift, I shift... fast and immediate would be a way to describe it.

The Kury shifter is a nicely made piece, very strong and sturdy, but I think this is part of the problem. It's quite heavy and there's too much mass being levered off the tranny arm... in my layman opinion... and I'm discovering the tranny arm is a bit too sensitive to work well with it. Further, there's a bit of slop in the linkage and I'm not quite sure how this affects things, if at all, but slop is not a good thing any way you slice it. Frankly I doubt if this slop is better or worse than any other heal-toe shifter out there; it's just the nature of the beast.

When I first got the 6 and installed this, it seemed to work fine. But after getting to know the bike and push it hard, the lack of precision in the heal-toe shifter appears to be problematic... for me anyway, for my driving style. I'd note, however, that I'm no pro... most of my shifts can probably be called clunky and sloppy by someone who can shift well. If I were better at pre-loading and if my coordination was better, maybe I wouldn't be having these problems but I'm not at that point in time of being better.

Below are the issues that I experienced with my heal-toe shifter. I've since removed it and am currently monitoring these issues; so far, much better.


1. 1st to 2nd missed shifts.
This happens frequently on hole-shots... quick acceleration from a standing stop. Looking for 2nd gear but finding neutral far too often to deal with.

2. Engaging neutral.
More times than not this turned into a ping-pong match where I'd skip through neutral several times before actually finding it. I think the mass of the shifter exacerbated this problem.

3. Ghost shift in the upper gears.
I had a gear change on at least one occasion that I feel was related to an "incomplete" shift... or a "soft" shift... it felt as if the shift did not result in a firm engagement which subsequently led to the tranny dropping into another gear by itself. I don't know if that makes physical sense but that's what it felt like.

Folks who ride Goldwings have tranny problems when they install the heel toe shifter and big floorboards. The weight of the shifter stress the tranny and sometimes riders have a tendency with the larger floorboards to rest part of the foot against or on some of the linkage. Ergo the problem.

[LX2]

Folks who ride Goldwings have tranny problems when they install the heel toe shifter and big floorboards. The weight of the shifter stress the tranny and sometimes riders have a tendency with the larger floorboards to rest part of the foot against or on some of the linkage. Ergo the problem.

I rode a couple Valkyries from 97 thru 11 with GW boards and Rattlebars heel/toe shifters, Kuryakyn setup 11 thru 13 on a GL 1800 and now on a F6B with no issues. I bet what you say about the tendency of resting the foot could be the culprit.

LL

[Scotrod]

If you want to shift like a racer, use what the racers use, not H/T's and/or floorboards.

This would also include MC-specific "Sport" type shoes / boots, not Steel-Toes or big old waffle-stomper boots,,,

The 6 / Wing is probably the most 'finicky' shifting bike I've had,,, Shifting 'input' has to be more precise than others,,,

I had the Kury for a while,, Loved the heel part, but didn't like the toe,,, Now running OEM shifter and mini-boards tilted front-down

Once in a blue moon, when I get lazy, I'll end up with a '3/4 shift',,,, Neutral has not been a problem,,,

As always, YMMY

[bigbird]

Now running OEM shifter and mini-boards tilted front-down

Same setup I use.

With my Alpinestars S-MX1 size 12.5 boots, shifting is sure and secure. If anyone is having trouble with big heavy boots and shifting, try these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...s-s-mx-1-boots

I got rid of my old size 13 Icon Field Armour Chukka boots. They were way too big and clunky to fit under the shifter.

[srt8-in-largo]

I wonder if a couple of design changes would make it work better.

Aluminum instead of steel... and maybe a direct attachment to the tranny arm.

[Scotrod]

Keep it (OEM unit) clean and greased up good.

[JBnAZ]

I use the stock shifter with stock pegs with smaller sport boots and I ride aggressively. I experience the same set of symptoms as described in the first post. If I get sloppy (tired) or have ridden many miles my bike exhibits the same issues with shifting. I am not convinced it's the heel toe shifter, could be, but may be we are pushing the limits of the tranny capability.

[srt8-in-largo]

Keep it (OEM unit) clean and greased up good.

I'll add this as a write-in on my maintenance table.

I use the stock shifter with stock pegs with smaller sport boots and I ride aggressively. I experience the same set of symptoms as described in the first post. If I get sloppy (tired) or have ridden many miles my bike exhibits the same issues with shifting. I am not convinced it's the heel toe shifter, could be, but may be we are pushing the limits of the tranny capability.

Well I hope I'm not fooling myself somehow. After removing it, the tranny is "dropping" into gears much cleaner and so far no more ghost shifts. Finding 2nd is still finicky, and I've missed it a time or two but MUCH less than with the H-T shifter.

[srt8-in-largo]

I think I know what you mean about shifting when tired... the ol foot just doesn't have the energy for a firm press

With the H-T shifter, each and every shift REQUIRED a firm and full press to get a clean shift.

After removing it and only using the tranny arm with your toe, a shift only requires a blip of the lever and the gears drop together seemingly all by themselves. For me anyway, there's a night and day difference.