The quick answer is yes. The adapter plates that come with the speakers are not really ideal. They too have to be shaved down substantially to fit of coarse. A superior choice would be to make some adapter plates out of wood or solid ABS plastic in the proper thickness needed.Originally Posted by ths61
The problem is the speaker basket / structure / spider hits inside of the speaker enclosure before the speaker sits flat so a spacer of some sort is needed.
"Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"
Looks like they're rated for 55 to 60 watts RMS. http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DXI.../dp/B00FEYXTT6
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-b9xzeDI...o-DXi651s.html
Running more than that shouldn't be an issue if you set the amplifier gain control to help keep from over driving them. More speakers are damaged from too little wattage than too much.
"Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"
I stand corrected
The DXI 6.5 are
6 - 60 watt RMS with 180 Peak.
The DXI 651s - shallow mount are appx 5 watt lower.
I will likely end up with the MM 651 Polk. 100 watt RMS rated.
I also believe the sound would be best doing what JT did in finding the input to the oem amp.
Thanks
4 Wheels Move the Body
2 Wheels Move the Soul
In Loving Memory of My Brother
"Death Waits In The Dark"
2013 F6B Deluxe
The best sound I achieved with the OEM stereo was like you mentioned , finding the preouts to the OEM amplifier and using them to feed the after market amplifier. But now I have seen the light, or at least heard it.I am no longer using anything OEM in the stereo system.
"Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"
Amplifier gain settings will NOT (in all amps I have ever been associated with) limit the output to a reduced wattage. The only thing that will limit the amp's output is something that limits its input.
Totally concur with "more speakers are damaged from too little wattage..."
My girls:
Isleen - 2014 F6BD
Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special
"Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
Ambrose Bierce
Yes, the gains are used to match the pre out voltage to the amplifier's input gain structure, but you can use this to limit the maximum volume that you achieve. Doing by ear, you could decrease the gains until you achieve the ability to turn your source volume up without audible distortion in your speakers. Yeah, it is just a way to adapt. Of course the more accurate way to adjust gain control is by using a DMM and adjusting the gains to the desired voltage that will avoid the amplifier clipping. The desired voltage is dependent on the RMS rating of the amplifier and the impedance or load that wattage is driving.
Voltage = square root of the (wattage x impedance)
"Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"
I use this equation to set my limiters:
20log(((sqrt(program wattage of speakers * impedance of speakers)) / amplifier gain) / 0.775)
Amp gain number is in "X" format, like 40X.
This yields proper dBu for setting limiters in sound processors.
This will limit the input signal so it cannot drive the amp past speaker ratings.
My girls:
Isleen - 2014 F6BD
Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special
"Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
Ambrose Bierce
The mounting bracket on yours looks different from what is pictured online. Did yours come with that bracket or did you make it?Hey All,
I installed some rear speakers about a year ago. They put out only about 1/10th the volume of the front speakers. So, pretty much useless. I have tried other speakers with the same result.
So, gave up and added a two channel amp to drive the rear speakers. What a world of difference! I am shocked! Those crappy little speakers are suddenly fantastic!
With the four speakers the sound is so much fuller. You feel like you are in a room filled with music. Also, the little four inch rear speakers have much more bass and more punch than the front (I think that the front speaker magnets are just too small).
The amp fits under the seat. There are four handy mounting bosses right there. Just make four zigzag angle brackets to hold the amp. The rear speaker wiring is right there (I used the high level inputs). And the speakers are attach to the hand rails - out of the way of any luggage/packing.
It came out great. The amp has enough oomph to drive another speaker using the bridged output. I might someday cram a woofer into the glove box area. I am happy for now.
Attachment 13825
Amp fits comfortably under the seat.
Attachment 13826
Input wiring is right there!
Attachment 13827
Testing ....
Attachment 13828
And done.
I didn't "make" the bracket. I did bend their supplied bracket to fit how I wanted it to. Then touched it up where the paint cracked. I did not use the curvy part intended for handlebar mounting.
On a side note: It turns out that these speakers have really good bass for a 4" speaker. I just recently tried another pair and the bass was not even close.
Albuquerque, NM
I'm gonna dive in with my Polk MM 651 speakers this weekend, replacing a perfectly sounding and almost brand new pair of trimmed to fit Polk DXI 651's. Wife says it's an obsession. She's right, it sounds perfect now. But I just want to match my Polk amp with their premium speaker. More to come. May be a nice already trimmed to fit pair of Polk 6.5's for sale, depending on my outcome.
Took some time coming to grips with cutting up a brand new high quality speaker... Then, next comes a sub woofer..
I ride the SG if I want to hear pipes.
J
4 Wheels Move the Body
2 Wheels Move the Soul
In Loving Memory of My Brother
"Death Waits In The Dark"
2013 F6B Deluxe
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