Regarding your rear differential, you should at least check it at 4K miles. Many who have checked it, find it low from the factory. You can easily top it off with Honda Hypoid Gear OilOriginally Posted by Elroy
Regarding your rear differential, you should at least check it at 4K miles. Many who have checked it, find it low from the factory. You can easily top it off with Honda Hypoid Gear Oil
I believe the first valve check is at 32,000 miles. At least that's what I remember without referencing my owner's manual....
Clean - Crankcase breather. Service more frequently if mostly riding in rain or full throttle.
Replace - Oil and Filter then Honda recommends every 8000 miles or 12 months
Inspect - Engine Idle Speed
Inspect - Brake Fluid. Honda recommends replacing every 2 years.
Inspect - Brake Pad Wear
Inspect - Clutch Fluid. Honda recommends replacing every 2 years.
Well, I'm glad(mostly) that I took it to a dealer, rather than doing it myself. I get a call, and this dealer, I guess they inspect the airbox/air filter via camera probe first, rather than digging all the way into it, and they give me the news that "you've got ain your airbox my friend".
They cleaned out the airbox and had to replace the filter, which they showed me the old one and the bottom of it was pretty well chewed. Glad I took it to the dealer, as I probably would not have bothered @ 4,800mi trying to make my way to the air filter if I had done the oil change myself.
Not so glad I took it to the dealer because they changed my final drive oil. I asked them about it when I saw it on the work detail and they said they always change it out "just to be safe". He said it was dirty and stinky and looked like "ground up graphite was mixed in with the oil". Was that the moly? Or debris from the gears? I can't be the only person with this bike whose final drive oil was changed out before the recommended 20K, is there any worry for the long-term having done so? I made only a minor fuss about it when I was there, should I have made a bigger deal out of it? At least my final drive oil should be topped-off.....The real sour part is the $380 hole it torched in my wallet.....
Personally (you did ask for others opinions) I wouldn't sweat it. I have seen at least one other person on this forum say it will ruin your rear end etc I hope he isn't correct ! One saving grace is if it goes bad there are several who have bought new trike take offs for around $100 for the complete Assy. Again personally I would fill it with Mobil 1 synthetic 75w90 grade I think it is and not worry. Perhaps also if your dealer contacts Honda maybe they have this special juice they put in at the factory fill. Just this past month a friend I ride with took his GL1800 in for a rear tire and his GL had 11k on it and he ask them to check his oil level and they like your dealer said "it was nasty looking so we drained it and refilled" IMHO I can't believe that draining the rear end premature will result in complete rear end failure.Well, I'm glad(mostly) that I took it to a dealer, rather than doing it myself. I get a call, and this dealer, I guess they inspect the airbox/air filter via camera probe first, rather than digging all the way into it, and they give me the news that "you've got a
They cleaned out the airbox and had to replace the filter, which they showed me the old one and the bottom of it was pretty well chewed. Glad I took it to the dealer, as I probably would not have bothered @ 4,800mi trying to make my way to the air filter if I had done the oil change myself.
Not so glad I took it to the dealer because they changed my final drive oil. I asked them about it when I saw it on the work detail and they said they always change it out "just to be safe". He said it was dirty and stinky and looked like "ground up graphite was mixed in with the oil". Was that the moly? Or debris from the gears? I can't be the only person with this bike whose final drive oil was changed out before the recommended 20K, is there any worry for the long-term having done so? I made only a minor fuss about it when I was there, should I have made a bigger deal out of it? At least my final drive oil should be topped-off.....The real sour part is the $380 hole it torched in my wallet.....
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Doug K9CRT
Decatur, IL
2013 F6b (Red)
Cage 2016 Chevrolet Silverado Z71
Cage in Avatar Honda S2000
Changing early while usually not needed as it is a closed system wont hurt a damn thing! The reason the oil gets black is not MOLY that everyone thinks Honda specifically puts in but rather a phosphate coating that is on both the ring and pinion during the manufacturing process.
The phosphate coating is an anti corrosive as well as a help in the lapping process. Once the ring and pinion are lapped they are a matched set via contact. It wont hurt anything being in there, and also wont hurt to pull it out and replace the lube either.
I'm wondering about all the marked down "good deals" on 13's that have been on the floor and only recently sold....is the brake fluid in need of changing?
If Honda is recommending a change out every two years, then yes I'd say so. Probably a good idea to bring in Honda's own service inspections sheets to the sales floor (available at any dealer. they can print one out for you) when you are trying to close a deal. Service items can be (one of) the conditions of sale.
stealer did my first oil change at 2500 mi, since then, every 5k with rotella t6 and a bosch 3323d- BTW walmart has both for about $30.
it's not recommended, but I changed the real drive oil at 8000mi and i did see the phosphate , thought it was ground up gears. 15k now, and all of it was hard riding. Don't think it's something to worry about. and you at least have a service history with mother honda. I'd chock up the $350 or so to showing that you at least want to protect your investment.
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