I know the manual calls for 10/30 with no graphite or molybdenum. So what do you use? I wanna change mine tonight or tomorrow for the ride out, already have the OEM filters. A lot of my other Japanese sportbike friends run and swear by Rotella T6.
I know the manual calls for 10/30 with no graphite or molybdenum. So what do you use? I wanna change mine tonight or tomorrow for the ride out, already have the OEM filters. A lot of my other Japanese sportbike friends run and swear by Rotella T6.
18 Kawasaki Z900RS black
1989-1995 IC2- USN
Honda GN4 10w-40
But do a search... lot of past posts on oil; on this forum. I have used Shell Rotella T6 before in my VTX long ago; and I was using it in my past Triumph Rocket 3, but I lost two cam lobes due to it. Although I had custom cams installed in it by Carpenter Racing and unknown to me; Shell reduced the ZDDP level in that oil.
Flat tappet cam type engines need more zinc. I don't trust Shell Rotella T6 anymore; after that expensive little fiasco...
21 years Army (retired)
...been everywhere, seen everything, done almost everything.
IBA 80537
Who determined that the Rotella T6 oil had anything to do with the cam lobe failures...Not doubting, just find it kind of hard to believe that the oil was the cause...Seems strange that only two lobes went bad???.... Maybe so, but?????Originally Posted by willtill
Bob at Carpenter Racing. And the company that he uses to re-grind the cams for the 240 HP package I had installed in my Rocket. All the lobes were showing accelerated wear; but two of them were toast.... hence the pronounced "tapping" i was getting after my oil change with Rotella T6.
Afterwards on his recommendation; I went to Amsoil Heavy Duty Marine and Diesel Synthetic. No issues at all regarding cam lobe wear thereafter...
However.... do not run that oil in your F6B's.... it has friction modifiers in it. Wasn't an issue for my Rocket since the clutch and springs were beefed up for the 240hp kit.
21 years Army (retired)
...been everywhere, seen everything, done almost everything.
IBA 80537
Again I must question the statement of friction modifiers in Rotella T6 Synthetic...Many on this board and the GW site have used this oil without issue for thousands of miles...A previous post a few months ago showed that NO friction modifiers are in Rotella T6Syn...The Shell website itself does not list any kind of friction modifiers in the oil and claims it is approved by JASO for 4 stroke motorcycles...I just switched to it this last change and so far it works for me....Perhaps down the road it may be a different story, but for now I will continue to use it.....Regards and ride safe.....
I believe that willtill was referring to the Amsoil Synthetic as having friction modifiers not the Shell Oil
100_0333.jpg100_0335.jpg Once you have enough miles to start using Synthetic. Check your manual or perhaps someone will chime in with that information. Way smoother shifts...........................Dickie
" A Gun Is Like A Parachute.If You Need One, And Don't Have One, You'll Probably Never Need One Again!"
They are using the "right" oil! Follow their suite and you'll be fine!
I know it also says JASO T 903 standard MA. No API SH or higher that say "energy conserving" or "resource conserving". I'm at about 1800 miles.
18 Kawasaki Z900RS black
1989-1995 IC2- USN
With that low mileage.. I would wait before running a synthetic. Just my personal opinion.
I'm going to change out at the initial 4K mark on mine... no drama with this bike for once. Should be close once I get back from Franklin.
21 years Army (retired)
...been everywhere, seen everything, done almost everything.
IBA 80537
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