Bobby...you are looking at $80 for all the parts to make the top cover....a couple of people have bought these and mounted a GPS on it and the like and just changed out the lids.....
Bobby...you are looking at $80 for all the parts to make the top cover....a couple of people have bought these and mounted a GPS on it and the like and just changed out the lids.....
" Truth is often deemed rude, blunt and to the point which is why so few make their friend " Freddy Hayler ..352-267-1553 Sanford, FLA Gutterman6000@Gmail.com
Bobby, here is an additional idea. ( I have used the Kuryakyn cubby lid...painted black...for the past 12k miles, and I like it, but...it can be improved on, as the cup holder area is too small, and only a limited number of cup can fit in there)
Go with your idea of using the OEM lid cover...find a drinking cup that you really like and will use...cut the lid to fit the drinking cup, and then also find a foam can cooler...the kind that was popular at every convenience store and truck stop 10 years ago, they are still available, you just have to look for them today. Use an insulated foam can cooler that you slide your drink cup, or can of beer/soda, etc into, and place that down into the cubby hole, then place the cubby lid on top of that, and squish the cubby lid down ONTO the foam can coller, to hold the foam can cooler in place.
They do make those foam can coolers in slightly different heights and diameters. Find a taller and larger one, such so that when the cubby lid is placed on TOP of the foam can cooler, it pushes down onto the foam can cooler, and sorta locks it into place. A person could...if they wanted to...also glue the top rim of the foam can cooler to the bottom of the cubby lid, to that it holds a tight seal, but I do not think that is necessary.
My only problem with the Kuryakyn cubby lid is that the drink holder hole is too small, and after finally finsing a decent drinking cup that will work for me, it is still too tight to fit into the rubber holders of the Kuryakyn cubby lid. I make it work, and I could just be satisfied with it...BUT...like you and Steve, I am never quite satisfied, until it is right.
I used Plasti Dip on my Can Am Spyder when I had it.I noticed that if you spray things you do not touch/play with alot holds up fine
but use it on stuff you touch/play with alot then it was not that great.
Ride it like you stole it
PlastiDip started peeling off, so now it's carbon fiber! I used some vinyl wrap that I had laying around.
IMG_1087.jpg
I am not a fan of Plasti-Dip. I coated a cooler with white so as not to use as much ice on my Western trip. note RED coolers melt ice faster. The edges came up and about anything would knock a chunk out of the finish. However it did keep the cooler cooler. I totaled the trailer with the Wing so did not have to peel the white off. So here I am again with a red cooler on my Bunkhouse camper. Duh! It matches the fast RED F6B..
Deer Slayer._ ._.
I'm currently on my 2nd round of trying plasti-dip on my cubby. As Texas TC said, the cables on my right bar bumps my cubby, leaves a tear in the plasti-dip. Also, when you try to remove the cubby lids it tears. Plasti-dip is good in certain applications, just not this one, at least not for me. I'll be doing a good old fashioned Krylon rebuild on my cubby next week. I'm pretty sure it'll last longer.
Deer Slayer one year at Wing Ding a older man was talking
about ice melting in ice chest, he said put insulation under cooler rack
most of your heat comes off the road surface and he was correct it work.