Audio enhancement perma-grin style
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  1. #1
    Senior Member broncsrule21's Avatar
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    I'm sold on those Hertz speakers. Any ideas for a "budget" 2 channel amp? No plans on running a sub. Need to keep stock controls.
    2013 F6B ---Nimitz Class Battle Sofa

  2. #2
    Senior Member CoCoKola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broncsrule21 View Post
    I'm sold on those Hertz speakers. Any ideas for a "budget" 2 channel amp? No plans on running a sub. Need to keep stock controls.
    the Arc Audio amp is considered top-tier from about five years ago and a strong contender today. It has a circuit that helps sub-bass be 'reproduced' using harmonics that you can try switching on, although I myself would not use it. It is similar to the SRS bass boost already on the F6B albeit better. It is 70 watts RMS per channel and a decent match, albeit at the lower end.

    The Audison drives 130watts for the woofer and 130watts for the tweeter, so it's a significant improvement in power and is a vastly superior solution. Don't let the complexity of the Audison concern you, I will be happy to program the unit and wiring notes.
    I actually listened to classical music on the way home at 80MPH. I can't say it was like being at the symphony hall, but it was reasonable considering.


    I am considering offering to install the whole setup or only program the amp configured & "dialed-in" to your tastes (music type, hearing needs,etc)
    ould there be any interest? If so, send me a PM. I may reach out to the dealers and see about a group buy or discount.
    PS - do not be afraid of the youtube video related "Poor Design" - the video apparently was complaining the unit was causing interference with his head-unit
    Thanks all!
    Robert

  3. #3
    Senior Member CoCoKola's Avatar
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    I'll take it no interest here, I'll not put much more time into it.

    I do have a question, I'm using the power from the oem amp relay for the accessory on. If i leave the key on acc or on, as in getting ready, 1 out of 100 times i go to start the bike, i get a pulse of noise through the system. The easy fix is turn off the bike for a half second before starting, but would love to eliminate this. I suspect since the power lead is of the relay, the cycle time of the relay comes into play.

    I'm going to try another acc switched source.

    Other thoughts or suggestions?

    I have timing options on the unit to play with as well.

    Thanx all,
    Robert

  4. #4
    Senior Member Jimmytee's Avatar
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    Interests come and go. Right now, I assume more people are interested in riding.
    "Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"

  5. #5
    Senior Member CoCoKola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmytee View Post
    Interests come and go. Right now, I assume more people are interested in riding.
    Excellent point JimmyT.

    I can't get enough riding. I'm reliving my favorite music 🎶, a phenomenon i haven't experienced in a while. Listening to my favorite bands like it is the first time. It happens every time I get an improved sound system. I can't get over how crisp snare sounds on most recordings. It's something many professional systems i run don't quite achieve. I'll never get the low end anywhere near a pro rig, but the vocals, drums and guitars are sexy good.

    Oh, and my apologies to whomever was upset about Jimmy and I not finishing the songs at the rally.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Papa Tater's Avatar
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    I'm glad to see that you got it going using the OEM head unit , I'm sitting back looking at all the posts so far. About 2 months ago I went and had the pros look at mine and diagnose what makes it tick, I have been wanting to do something similar to Jimmytee, but using the OEM head unit. I had been searching prior to that for gold wing upgraded- amped systems and really nothing out there. Did a lot of research on auto OEM intergration and figured maybe it would work on this motorcycle. The results on diagnostics were similar to autos for equalization and roll offs but with a lot of distortion - off the scale with the factory amp and with the pre amp much better but still roll offs. Also different with motorcycle off and also with motorcycle running. They know that I'm doing my own system and gave me some guidance on what to do to achieve a flat or close to flat I should say OEM intergration. I going more toward a OEM intergration that is simple that analyzes to signal and corrects equalization from the preamp to the added amplifier. I'm hoping to keep it simple and on a lower budget, now seeing what you have done and got great results. I want have the fine tune tweaking that you have, but hope it works with adjustments on the amp, bass and treble settings - also will be adding a subwoofer to the system. Now to pull the trigger and hope it works as planned. I will do a post when I get it done with results- etc.
    2015 Matte Silver F6B (Current Bike)
    2011 Yamaha Stryker Copper Red (Wife's Current Bike)
    2011 Yamaha Stryker Impact Blue (Traded in for F6B)
    1997 Yamaha YZF 1000 (1997-2015 - sold recently)
    1995 Yamaha YZF 600 (1995-1997)
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    I come from the Sport Bike World. The things I used to blow by, I now cruise by and enjoy......

  7. #7
    Senior Member CoCoKola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa Tater View Post
    I'm glad to see that you got it going using the OEM head unit , I'm sitting back looking at all the posts so far. About 2 months ago I went and had the pros look at mine and diagnose what makes it tick, I have been wanting to do something similar to Jimmytee, but using the OEM head unit. I had been searching prior to that for gold wing upgraded- amped systems and really nothing out there. Did a lot of research on auto OEM intergration and figured maybe it would work on this motorcycle. The results on diagnostics were similar to autos for equalization and roll offs but with a lot of distortion - off the scale with the factory amp and with the pre amp much better but still roll offs. Also different with motorcycle off and also with motorcycle running. They know that I'm doing my own system and gave me some guidance on what to do to achieve a flat or close to flat I should say OEM intergration. I going more toward a OEM intergration that is simple that analyzes to signal and corrects equalization from the preamp to the added amplifier. I'm hoping to keep it simple and on a lower budget, now seeing what you have done and got great results. I want have the fine tune tweaking that you have, but hope it works with adjustments on the amp, bass and treble settings - also will be adding a subwoofer to the system. Now to pull the trigger and hope it works as planned. I will do a post when I get it done with results- etc.
    All vehicles will be different on battery vs running, as that voltage increases by two volts. You are correct there are many charges to the flat response, which is why most of not all solutions, other than JimmyTs will never sound great. You must get a dsp that cab compensate for the changes. The Audisonl has this built in, so you end up with flat response. Prior to post eq changes it also supports.

    For 250, you can get this c-dsp product and with some documented magic, you can theoretically achieve the same. This product is not processing at the same high sample rate, but should suffice.

    I will post what the curve looks like that comes from the head unit. I can assure you, with the Audison, the overall sound quality is very high with the head unit. I have captured SMAART fft traces comparing the signal output of source device against the measured output of the speakers.

    I look forward to learning a less expensive way. That would be a holy grail.
    Robert

  8. #8
    Senior Member broncsrule21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pressorv View Post
    the Arc Audio amp is considered top-tier from about five years ago and a strong contender today. It has a circuit that helps sub-bass be 'reproduced' using harmonics that you can try switching on, although I myself would not use it. It is similar to the SRS bass boost already on the F6B albeit better. It is 70 watts RMS per channel and a decent match, albeit at the lower end.

    The Audison drives 130watts for the woofer and 130watts for the tweeter, so it's a significant improvement in power and is a vastly superior solution. Don't let the complexity of the Audison concern you, I will be happy to program the unit and wiring notes.
    I actually listened to classical music on the way home at 80MPH. I can't say it was like being at the symphony hall, but it was reasonable considering.


    I am considering offering to install the whole setup or only program the amp configured & "dialed-in" to your tastes (music type, hearing needs,etc)
    ould there be any interest? If so, send me a PM. I may reach out to the dealers and see about a group buy or discount.
    PS - do not be afraid of the youtube video related "Poor Design" - the video apparently was complaining the unit was causing interference with his head-unit
    Thanks all!
    Robert

    Your offer to set up these amps is very much appreciated. At this point I am just looking at less expensive options. I'm sure the Audison, set up, sounds fantastic! Right now, its a case of "champagne taste on a beer budget". Thanks again for your generous offer and all the knowledge you have on our specific set up.
    2013 F6B ---Nimitz Class Battle Sofa

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