Audio enhancement perma-grin style

[F6Pilot]

Robert, thank you for the detailed information. It will speed up my discovery process immensely. There is one piece I am thoroughly confused on and that is the conversion from the pre-amp wires to RCA connectors. I am only running front components so per the manual there are essentially only four wires coming from the head unit into the amp. They feed both the tweeters and the mids and I should tap in to these lines prior to the factory amp. I'm assuming an RCA is essentially a ring and tip configuration for + and - so do you use a high/low convertor to convert from basic wires to the RCA? Additionally, what determines whether the tip or ring is + or -?

[CoCoKola]

I'm glad to hear it will help you!

You will need to splice the first four lines in the chart above. The tip of the rca is the positive and the shield is the negative. Depending on the amp you buy, you will need to purchase twisted RCA cable (such as the mvp4 or and audison amp) or coaxial rca cable. It matters so you don't end up with engine noise or ground loop issues. The cost is about the same. Check your manual to see which kind is needed, or check with your supplier.

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As far as a converter, as long as you tap between the head head unit and the amp, you are getting a low level rca level. It's actually below the standard voltage level for rca, but most amps have enough sensitivity adjustment to make up for the difference. You may need to get a line driver to add additional gain, or if you run into a problem like Jimmy where there is distortion due to the differences.

I can recommend a couple products that can help. The best option is a dsp unit that costs bucks, but would give you most of what you are missing not having the Audison total eq compensation and time alignment. For another day..

Cheers!

[F6Pilot]

I finished a little more electrical work today. I got the crossovers wired up and secured with zip ties in the right cubby. In the future I would like to create a more permanent mount/platform for this part of the project. I also soldered in a weatherproof connector for the gear indicator and remounted the gauge cluster. Im really considering taking another tweeter apart so it can be mounted in the stock position. Now that I know what to look for, I believe I can get the grill removed without further incident. If I do experience another malfunction I can always put the first tweeter back together and surface mount the pair.

[willtill]

I finished a little more electrical work today. I got the crossovers wired up and secured with zip ties in the right cubby. In the future I would like to create a more permanent mount/platform for this part of the project. I also soldered in a weatherproof connector for the gear indicator and remounted the gauge cluster.

Oh! Oh! Oh! You mean that you ere able to fit the GI Pro Indicator behind the plastic on the gauge cluster? It actually has enough room to be mounted there?

I do have cruise control though.. the indicator lights for it would be obscured in that position you had put yours. Wondering if there would be enough to move it to the left; between the bezels of the Speedometer and Tachometer gauges?

[F6Pilot]

Yes, there is room in the cluster all of the way across. I simply placed mine to the left of the high beam indicator. The clear cover comes off with screws and you simply dremel some notches to route the wire out of the cluster. Be aware that the outer sheathing on the indicator cable is very soft and susceptible to being cut by any sharp edge.

[CoCoKola]

I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions of the speakers, and a recap of what you had installed previously for comparison. What a Christmas gift for yourself!

[F6Pilot]

Yeah, I'm anxious to get it done but was "reminded" today that I have all winter...

My progression as shown below has been stock, J&M, JBL, and now Hertz.