Audio enhancement perma-grin style

[CoCoKola]

I'm glad to see that you got it going using the OEM head unit , I'm sitting back looking at all the posts so far. About 2 months ago I went and had the pros look at mine and diagnose what makes it tick, I have been wanting to do something similar to Jimmytee, but using the OEM head unit. I had been searching prior to that for gold wing upgraded- amped systems and really nothing out there. Did a lot of research on auto OEM intergration and figured maybe it would work on this motorcycle. The results on diagnostics were similar to autos for equalization and roll offs but with a lot of distortion - off the scale with the factory amp and with the pre amp much better but still roll offs. Also different with motorcycle off and also with motorcycle running. They know that I'm doing my own system and gave me some guidance on what to do to achieve a flat or close to flat I should say OEM intergration. I going more toward a OEM intergration that is simple that analyzes to signal and corrects equalization from the preamp to the added amplifier. I'm hoping to keep it simple and on a lower budget, now seeing what you have done and got great results. I want have the fine tune tweaking that you have, but hope it works with adjustments on the amp, bass and treble settings - also will be adding a subwoofer to the system. Now to pull the trigger and hope it works as planned. I will do a post when I get it done with results- etc.

All vehicles will be different on battery vs running, as that voltage increases by two volts. You are correct there are many charges to the flat response, which is why most of not all solutions, other than JimmyTs will never sound great. You must get a dsp that cab compensate for the changes. The Audisonl has this built in, so you end up with flat response. Prior to post eq changes it also supports.

For 250, you can get this c-dsp product and with some documented magic, you can theoretically achieve the same. This product is not processing at the same high sample rate, but should suffice.

I will post what the curve looks like that comes from the head unit. I can assure you, with the Audison, the overall sound quality is very high with the head unit. I have captured SMAART fft traces comparing the signal output of source device against the measured output of the speakers.

I look forward to learning a less expensive way. That would be a holy grail.
Robert

[JGF6B]

Any audio upgrade posts are interesting to me. I'm hoping to upgrade mine over the winter but I haven't decided which route to take. I'm sure I'll revisit and re-read all of these audio threads.
Keep the info coming.

[Jimmytee]

Hey Robert. eyeballing these. These woofers do have the neodymium magnets. The HSKs , only the tweeters have the neodymium. Sould make fitment a bit easier, but check out that price.

[CoCoKola]

Hey Robert. eyeballing these. These woofers do have the neodymium magnets. The HSKs , only the tweeters have the neodymium. Sould make fitment a bit easier, but check out that price.

I'll verify - the installer I spoke with stated the mid bass driver was neodymium. I'm surprised to read that..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252533837361 $289 I bought my set from custom sounds for 199, however, they don't have it listed on their website. I'm wondering if it was a one-off or the like.

I do see the same model as a coaxial hcx 130 sells for 239 on Amazon or other outlets for less. I am trying to verify if you can wire the tweeter separately, although even if not, this is likely tbd best speaker for the money if you don't go audison or dsp active two way.

Stay tuned, I am talking with head of sales to find options for lowering the price, such as purchasing drivers only, quantity purchase, etc.

[Jimmytee]

Most the models of speakers I have looked at have Ferrite magnets on the woofers and Neodymium magnets on the tweeters, The picture you showed me of the speakers lined up, sure looked like the woofer had a ferrite magnet. That would be an extremely big magnet if it were a neodymium on that woofer of yours. No matter, you made it work.

I have seen the sets on Ebay for $289. Also have seen people post that there are imposters/fake speakers claiming to be Hertz on there so it might be a gamble as to whether you are truly getting an actual Hertz speaker from one of the Ebay stores. Don't know, just passing along the info. WOuld suck to spend hard earned money for a fake, bargain or not.

Amazon has listings but at higher cost. Thinking that if I were to switch, I might want to try the 6.5" though.

[broncsrule21]

I'll verify - the installer I spoke with stated the mid bass driver was neodymium. I'm surprised to read that..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252533837361 $289 I bought my set from custom sounds for 199, however, they don't have it listed on their website. I'm wondering if it was a one-off or the like.

I do see the same model as a coaxial hcx 130 sells for 239 on Amazon or other outlets for less. I am trying to verify if you can wire the tweeter separately, although even if not, this is likely tbd best speaker for the money if you don't go audison or dsp active two way.

Stay tuned, I am talking with head of sales to find options for lowering the price, such as purchasing drivers only, quantity purchase, etc.

Cool. I will be interested to hear what you get done. The hcx 130 can be had for $189.

[53driver]

I'll verify - the installer I spoke with stated the mid bass driver was neodymium. I'm surprised to read that..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252533837361 $289 I bought my set from custom sounds for 199, however, they don't have it listed on their website. I'm wondering if it was a one-off or the like.

I do see the same model as a coaxial hcx 130 sells for 239 on Amazon or other outlets for less. I am trying to verify if you can wire the tweeter separately, although even if not, this is likely tbd best speaker for the money if you don't go audison or dsp active two way.

Stay tuned, I am talking with head of sales to find options for lowering the price, such as purchasing drivers only, quantity purchase, etc.

Okay Rob, I'm all in.
Buy once, cry once. I have serious audio gear for my sound company, why should my bike be any less capable?

Give me the list of ingredients for this recipe and where I can get them from.
(I don't think I need the 8.9, as the 4.9 should suffice. 70W->130W isn't even a 3dB increase...)
I'll get them on order and we'll have a project to complete!
Cheers,
Steve

[F6Pilot]

Okay Rob, I'm all in. Buy once, cry once.

Oh, the insanity of it all.....

[CoCoKola]

Oh, the insanity of it all.....

This upgrade is what gave my sanity back..

[CoCoKola]

Okay Rob, I'm all in.
Buy once, cry once. I have serious audio gear for my sound company, why should my bike be any less capable?

Give me the list of ingredients for this recipe and where I can get them from.
(I don't think I need the 8.9, as the 4.9 should suffice. 70W->130W isn't even a 3dB increase...)
I'll get them on order and we'll have a project to complete!
Cheers,
Steve

I'll be honest, if I could spend another $100 to get 2-3dB additional headroom, I would get it, unless you ride slow. The noise floor gets louder depending on your speed. I ran the same setup with just one channel per driver (4 total) and it worked, but there is a noticeable difference bridged. Of course, so many variables: helmet, windshield, environment, earplugs,etc.

It's as much about transients as it is intelligibility.. unless you heavily compress the signal, then you might not notice sections of a song are hard to make out. Also, the "speech intelligibility index" difference of a noise floor at 98dB and the output at 105dB, vs. 98dB at 102dB. Then increase speed 10MPH and, well, you get the point.

-Robert