F6B or Full Wing...? - Page 9
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Thread: F6B or Full Wing...?

  1. #81
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hollister, CA
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    223

    Installed the Add-On Hitch tonight...

    Not a simple process. End result was great, but the tolerances on the hitch assembly were terrible. Had to pry thing 1/2 a bolt width in order to get things to line up. Overall, about a 3 hour job... and for a "bolt on" it should have been easier.

    The "Vertical Hitch" is now installed and I found a Uni-Go adapter/receiver bracket that pops right in:

    Attachment 25128

    Now to wait for the weather to break and take a ride with the "pod" behind me.
    (Still need to take care of the wiring, but there are a few, simple, third-party options for wiring - first I need to look at the stuff that came with the Uni-Go trailer).

    Jim

  2. #82
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hollister, CA
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    223
    Further... although I had both Rush Mufflers off to make the hitch easier to install, I opted to re-install them and give them a little more time to impress me.
    I have the stock mufflers sitting on the floor in the shop, but since I've discovered how simple these "slip-on" style mufflers are to put on... I'll give the Rush Pipes a little more time and see if they grow on me.

  3. #83
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Phillipsburg NJ
    Posts
    46

    Modifying the B

    I bought a new B deluxe last year trading in my full 2000 Wing. I was riding so much, now my wife wants to go on more trips. So, what to do.

    Trading in wasn't an option since an even swap would be a 2012 Wing - losing about $6,000 due to its "used" condition- ouch. FYI, the difference between a new B and the bottom line Wing is about $4000-5000. After talking to a bunch of people here's what I'm doing to modify my B.

    • Corbin heated seat with driver and passenger backrests (approx $1200)
    • Full passenger floorboards. Honda OEM ($150 ebay - new)
    • I bought the luggage rack when I get the bike, works fine for a medium-sized bag nixing the need for the 3rd trunk.


    With these modifications, my B has the critical upgrades that come with a Wing but still keep the style of the B, which I love.

    Hope that helps.

  4. #84
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
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    Hollister, CA
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    223
    Quote Originally Posted by DocF6B View Post
    ...

    • I bought the luggage rack when I get the bike, works fine for a medium-sized bag nixing the need for the 3rd trunk.

    With these modifications, my B has the critical upgrades that come with a Wing but still keep the style of the B, which I love.
    Hope that helps.
    When you say, "I bought the luggage rack" are you referring to the factory rack? It's just my opinion, but the factory rack is pathetically small. I went with the one from BikeMP3 and am very happy with it. It's much larger, it's also lighter than the factory rack, it has pins on the bottom for bungees etc... and will support a much larger tail bag.

    Attachment 25158

    [Edit: It also does not conflict with the antenna, but a large tail bag might.]

  5. #85
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    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Phillipsburg NJ
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    46
    Yes, the factory rip-off rack. It was an impulse buy. I like the larger one you got.

  6. #86
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hollister, CA
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    223
    Quote Originally Posted by DocF6B View Post
    Yes, the factory rip-off rack. It was an impulse buy. I like the larger one you got.
    Well, actually, even if you go to a larger rack, you still need the base parts and they are about $100 anyway. Swapping to a larger rack will be easier for you now... should you choose.

  7. #87
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hollister, CA
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    223

    Made one more decision this weekend...

    Installed a License Plate Lock-Box to put my trailer wires in (the hitch is behind the rear cover and the Uni-Go adapter is only installed in the first picture). I looked for a clean 4-Pin trailer harness jack but there was nothing that I liked. I can't stand just having the trailer wiring rolled up and hanging down underneath, so I ordered this $20 lockable box that goes behind the license plate. I decided to remove the factory license plate bracket, as installing this on that bracket would look goofy, and would push the actual license plate out about 1 inch and cause the license plate light (above) to illuminate the box and not the plate. So I not only removed the bolt on bracket, but I cut the molded "hump" off so this box would mount flush to the rear cover and the license plate would be exactly where it would hang from the factory bracket. I used some black RTV silicone and sealed the back up so there was no way for water to get through, then secured the box with four bolts and nuts from the inside of the box. Once I get my wiring done (I'm waiting for an adapter from Electrical Connections) I'll just leave a short length of cable and the connector inside the box, so I can unlock it... plug in the trailer... and lock it back down.

    Attachment 25210

    RTV to seal things up on the backside...

    Attachment 25216

    Final product hinges at the top...

    Attachment 25209

    Pretty stealthy huh?

    [Oh yeah... I have a nice black License Plate Frame, but I don't have my California Plates yet.]

    Jim

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