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Thread: Anti Dive Shim

  1. #31
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    Does anyone know what the thickness is of the anti dive shim?

  2. #32
    Moderator bob109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speeddrive1 View Post
    Does anyone know what the thickness is of the anti dive shim?

    The thickness of a Nickel
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  3. #33
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    Cool. I will try to scrounge up a nickel and put the caliper on it.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by DMAGOLDRDR View Post
    For info from TRAXXION on the Anti-dive zip to the 13.50 mark and see what their rep says about anti-dive.
    Or watch the entire 3 part video for suspension info.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCIO7uGziS8
    Thank you sir for a great post full of valuable to the point information.

    Riding a Goldwing is like opening a can of testosterone.
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  5. #35
    Member Maddoggie501's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willtill View Post
    Most excellent. He explains it well. I am going to watch both part one and part 2 video's in their entirety later on.

    The shim is SO EASY to install, inexpensive and easy to revert back if you still think it doesn't improve the F6B's front suspension.

    The old adage that he quoted in the beginning of part 1 video; "The best that you have ridden is the best that you know" ...is so true. So true.
    I totally agree with everything he said about the Anti Dive. My feelings exactly. A cheap fix I tried to see what happens before I spend money on new springs. As for now, I like it and won't buy the springs yet!

  6. #36
    Member Maddoggie501's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travelor View Post
    I tend to agree with you on the "ain't broke, don't fix" approach. However, in this case, I did disable the anti-dive and like the smoother fork action when braking on bumps (at very little cost). The main reason I did it is that when only the one fork leg is being restricted by the anti-dive there is going to be a twisting effect on the axle as a result of it. I think it is a bad design that contributes to increased side loads on the fork tube bushings and seals. Maybe I'm wrong, and that's okay, but that's my opinion. Honda has a very weak fork design to begin with on the "wing", I have seen many wings with under 30k miles with fork seals leaking like crazy. Trying to avoid that situation on my ride.
    I totally agree! Like the guy in the video says, the ADV is a system to compensate for a poor spring design. I use a braking method I learned years ago in a road racing school. Before going into a high speed turn I use the front brake to slow down and as you start to lean in you use less pressure on the front brake. When you hit the apex you should be off the brakes and on the gas. In order for this type of braking to work, you need to load the front end to increase turn in and traction, just like the video explains. The ADV just prevented this operation and any bumps in the turn would rock my hands and upset the front end. Its just my humble opinion.

  7. #37
    Senior Member lgjhn's Avatar
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    On my Goldwing Roadsmith trike (a totally different animal for sure) that has a pretty good front rake and has Progressive springs installed, I drilled a hole in a nickel and sandwiched it in there to disable it. This gave the trike a much better front end as it allows full range on the shocks. However, I don't have Progressives in the F6B yet, so I'm leaving it bone stock for now. I will probably drop in a set of Progressives when it comes time to service the fork oil etc. At that point, I'll drill out another nickel and disable it as well.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maddoggie501 View Post
    I totally agree! Like the guy in the video says, the ADV is a system to compensate for a poor spring design. I use a braking method I learned years ago in a road racing school. Before going into a high speed turn I use the front brake to slow down and as you start to lean in you use less pressure on the front brake. When you hit the apex you should be off the brakes and on the gas. In order for this type of braking to work, you need to load the front end to increase turn in and traction, just like the video explains. The ADV just prevented this operation and any bumps in the turn would rock my hands and upset the front end. Its just my humble opinion.
    YES, YES, YES!!! Smooth control actions are the key to motorcycle riding. Too many riders simply decide or watch top racers, and make the mistake of thinking just grabbing fistfuls of gas and brake, and suddenly heaving their weight around is how to ride. Top racers and the best street riders are very smooth in the application of control actions, racers just do it so quickly it seems sudden. Watch the super-slow-motion shots of MotoGP riders and the truth is shown. Marquez (albeit with carbon/carbon brakes) goes from over 300kph to as low as 60kph using one finger on the brake lever.

    Why is it engineers seem to try to fix "problems" that aren't really problems at all? As the video explains, SOME dive under braking is a good thing. There is no free lunch, which is what hydraulic damper throttling anti-dive is all about as a suspension strategy. There is probably anti-dive on Marquez' RC213V's forks, but having a team of engineers tweaking it in pit lane is a far cry from the crude tech in the F6B left fork.


    Now to start saving for the full Traxxion treatment front and rear...

  9. #39
    Senior Member Redlinez's Avatar
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    Glad I found this thread. Time to order that anti dive shim!
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  10. #40
    Senior Member willtill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redlinez View Post
    Glad I found this thread. Time to order that anti dive shim!
    http://wingstuff.com/products/32921-...?from_search=1


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