Originally Posted by pilotguy299
I'm right with you. 11-12 while cruising and back it off to talk at stops. The bikes around me here it fine also.
A lot has to do with the windshield also. I hear it better running a 13" Cee Bailey than with a 14" Klock.
I live in St Louis and would like to know the final price?
Steve
Ok, I've started the audio project. Mounted the Arc Audio amp in the left saddlebag and started on the speakers. While taking measurements, I decided the HT25 tweeter would fit in the stock tweeter position if I removed the grill.
The first grill came off without a hitch.....the second....Houston, we have a problem. Yes, the actual tweeter separated from the back housing. I'm now curious about the two wires which appeared to be attached to nothing and simply tucked under the speaker. I know that can't be right but neither have any sign of solder.
While I await resolution for the tweeter issue, I decided to go ahead and work on the mids. I cut some spacers from 1/2" HDPE and utilized the stock speaker screws to mount the spacers to the dash.
Attachment 24947 Attachment 24948 Attachment 24949 Attachment 24950
Tomorrow I will start running a pair of 14/4 wires from the speakers back to the amp.
It's been a really tough year, and this month has been the straw breaking the camel's back. I've not had much time to document/follow along, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. I would take a meter and touch anything/everything that MIGHT be a connection point and measure resistance. I'm betting you can find where those leads were connected...
I'm pleased to see you are making progress, and I look forward to hearing your opinion. Frankly, the Audison really makes the difference between good and great. It seems if you don't mind warranty possibly being a challenge, you can buy the 8.9 Audison for 1/2 what I paid for it.
Earlier, I mentioned the Audison has a de-EQ that allows it to compensate for any "EQ"ing that the head unit does to the output. It's pretty simple, you play an included CD through your head unit, and it measures each channel against an expected output level for each frequency. It builds a curve that is inserted at the beginning of the processing chain. You set bass/treble to 0, turn off the bass boost, volume compensation etc for the test. I used the AUX input connected to a CD player.
Here is what it showed. Notice everything below 100Hz is dumped, the "bass boost" where the stock can push some low end between 100Hz and 500Hz, the strange boost about 1k, and the highs that seem to roll off. This should be as close to a straight line between the left and right sides of the measurement.
Attachment 24966
More to come..
With further inspection of the tweeters under a magnifying glass, I simply could not identify a connection point. I assume the connections ran up through a pair of those holes but I can't confirm without completing dismantling the casing. I ended up locating some more HT25 components which arrived today.
Now I must decide if I try to pull the grill off of another tweeter, potentially creating the same disastrous/expensive result, or simply cut holes in the factory mesh grills and surface mount.
I additionally pulled the front end apart and got the wiring routed from the crossovers to the speaker pods. I mounted the crossovers to another slab of HDPE and plan to secure them under the right cubby cover.
Attachment 24969Attachment 24970Attachment 24972
Jeff - thanks! I'm doing this mod soon. Shopping for the HSK 130s right now.
Cheers,
Steve
My girls:
Isleen - 2014 F6BD
Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special
"Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
Ambrose Bierce
Here is my start on the wiring. I will readily admit to being a novice, tilting more to the mechanical side than the electrical. You know, if you cant fix it with a bigger hammer...you've got an electrical problem.
I have posilocks on the way to help with the interconnects, but will really need some help understanding the "from" stock wiring and "to" where on the amp. Based on Robert's earlier comments, I assume I'm tapping two inputs going into the factory amp and connecting those to the RCA jacks. I further assume there is also a trigger wire for the "turn on" lug on the Arc amp. I have the FSM and will start trying to identify the appropriate wires this weekend.
F6Pilot: I am the polar <cough> opposite. Completing this audio upgrade was my trial by fire as a mechanic. Electrons are my friends. The fabrication was truly an adventure in "oh $hit, now what" but thanks to several here, I made it to the finish line.
The short <cough> answer is the accessory power pull from the accessory power tab to the left of the battery (I will double check that this is OFF during starter press.) I used the accessory power the stock amp used, but twice during my initial setup, when I had the bike in ACC mode for a while during start depress the sub amp didn't mute and it passed a not so nice signal. I believe this can be fixed by a config change on the 8.9 amp configuration, your post reminded me to verify the cause and resolve it.
Here is the wiring diagram for the input Molex for the Audison 8.9 and includes the F6B wiring colors and purpose. This chart should work with the ARC or other amps to know what to map to your amp's input side.
Audison Molex
Purpose
F6B Wire 16 White Front Left + Yellow/Black 8 White/Blk Front Left – Green/Black 15 Gray Front Right + Red/Black 7 Gray/Blk Front Right – Black/White* 14 Green Rear Left + Pink 6 Green/Blk Rear left – Light Green 13 Violet Rear Right + Blue/Black 5 violet/Blk Rear Right – White/Back*
For those who have a shop manual, and for your reference, codes used are the following for the F6B:
Bl – Black
BR – Brown
Bu – Blue
G – Green
Gr- Gray
Lb – Light Blue
Lg – Light Green
O – Orange
P – Pink
Pu – Purple
R – Red
W – White
Y – Yellow
Attachment 24991 Attachment 24992
That should get you going. Hope this info helps, it was a $itch to put together
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