I use Mobil 1 10W40 because I want to go an entire riding season without changing it, regardless of miles (9000 miles is best season).
Honestly, I could go with any MC dino oil under those conditions.
I am willing to bet you could never change the oil in this flat-6, and it would be gurgling down the highway just fine with 100k on it.
Former Ride:
2013 F6B Standard, black; sold 7/2019
Latest Addition:
2016 Gold Wing Level 3, red; SCT transmission stuck in manual mode
2019 Miles:
7,900 as of 10/6
I also used to think you could run just about any motor oil in our motorcycles without worrying about the consequences. That may no longer be the case as EPA mandates over the last several years have forced refiners to significantly reformulate many of the products we've depended on for years. Here's a little more info than I provided earlier.
What brought this to light for many was Ford's decision to recommend against the use of motor oils meeting some of the latest API standards in any of their diesel engines. It's unusual for a major manufacturer to take such a position. I'm sure the engineers behind the recommendation took some heat as there were obvious political ramifications.
Basically here's what happened. Significant increases in wear were observed when Ford tested diesel engines using oils that met both the latest API gasoline (SN) and diesel (CK-4) standards. Ford attributed the increased wear to a significant reduction in ZDDP, a phosphorus/zinc anti-wear compound found in all motor oils. So after the new standards were introduced in late 2016, Ford issued a position statement which said motor oil meeting the new CK-4/SN standards should not be used in any Ford diesel. They later approved some higher viscosity (40+) CK-4 oils for use. I was in Walmart the other day and noticed that Motorcraft diesel oils, which are formulated to meet the older CJ-4 standard, state 'CONTAINS MORE THAN 1000 PPM PHOSPHORUS FOR BETTER WEAR PROTECTION' right on the front label.
This is important information for motorcyclists. MC specific oils have usually contained fairly high levels of ZDDP. Many of us have used diesel oils (such as Shell Rotella) as a cost effective alternative because of their similar anti-wear properties. With these new API standards it probably isn't a bad idea to check out the specs of whatever oil you've been using. Even Mobil 1 4T (10W-40 MC oil) has had its ZDDP content reduced since 2016.
It's also worth mentioning that lower viscosity (30 and below) automotive oils have had drastically reduced ZDDP content for several years, and may not be a good choice for motorcycle engines.
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf
4T still has 1000 ppm for phosphorus, 1200 for zinc.
I notice a lot of the high mileage formulas have reduced zinc/phosphorus compounds. I wonder if the oil engineers have replaced ZDDP with another, more environmentally friendly compound that accomplishes the same goal.
I am not worried about the reduction in ZDDP.
Another notice: Mobil 1 now has a OW-16 formula for advanced fuel economy.. That is incredible. My pee is thicker, and I drink lots of water.
Former Ride:
2013 F6B Standard, black; sold 7/2019
Latest Addition:
2016 Gold Wing Level 3, red; SCT transmission stuck in manual mode
2019 Miles:
7,900 as of 10/6
I had to look for awhile to find Mobil 1 20W-50 for Saorla today....
Just not as popular anymore.
its obvious we are not the only group deliberating the details of oils for our machines. A quick search turned up a bunch of car/truck/bike forums that are having the same discussion. I pulled this post off of one of those sites....www.bobistheoilguy.com. The poster is working at Shell
Re: ZDDP level of Rotella CK4? [Re: bubbatime] #4464048 07/19/17 01:07 PM
ChrisGuerrero Offline
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 86
Houston, TX
You can use our Rotella T4 15W-40 engine oil or Rotella T6 5W-40 (synthetic, good for high and low temperatures). These two grades meet the JASO MA specifications and are safe for wet clutches. Also the zinc is 1200 ppm in both. Thanks for your interest in Shell products!
There is the story of the sales rep in the deep South with a company Corolla. He drove it 5 days a week and at every oil change interval he pestered the owner to get it changed, which he ignored. Finally at 89,000 miles the car was sold. It was a small town. 5 years later he saw the car still running around town.
I knew a guy a few years ago that had an old Honda Civic, 2001/2 I think, that had over 100,000 miles on it..He claimed that the oil had never been changed during the entire time he owned it???...BTW, he has since passed away and I have no idea what happened to the car....Regards and ride safe
There are many instances where someone has neglected oil change intervals and have not had an issue. Oil overheats and turn to fudge like varnish and sticks to the parts inside. Problems arise after someone starts oil changes and the new oil additives start to clean and break away the sludge which clogs the passages and causes a death due to oil starvation. Seen this many times after someone gets their new used vehicle and starts maintenance. Key is to keep it clean from the start to avoid problems.
I cannot think of a worse fate for a machine - to not be maintained.