Successful people build each other up. They motivate, inspire and push each other. Unsuccessful people just hate, blame and complain.
Well I think he joined the right site This is turning out to be the go to F6 forum.
Maybe one of you early birds will get to the first valve adjustment soon and tell the rest of us how to do them.
I agree with you on everything you wrote except you do not have to remove to lower cover for the filter. I used a rubber/plastic strap wrench on the OEM filter and put on the longer Bosch 3323 without removing any cowling whatsoever. If you use the Honda filter wrench you will need the extra room but with these little plastic rubber straps (Sears and Harbor Freight both have them) it's a snap.
An oil change is a 10 minute job. If it takes me longer than that, my dog is helping me!
... 5 minutes with the help of Mr. Fumoto.
As does my response. I was on the ground, using only the side stand, and it was IMPOSSIBLE for me to install a longer filter (Purolator PL14610) without removing the lower cowl. Maybe Canadian versions are different? Maybe my hands and fingers are bigger than the other guys, or the other guys were using centre stands? Or maybe I just didn't put enough effort into trying to finagle the longer filter into position? Regardless, I gave up and installed the stock OEM Honda filter. It went on easily with the lower cowl in place.
My problem was getting the longer Purolator filter to clear the cowl in order to screw onto the oil standpipe.
My next oil change, when I put my bike away for the winter, I'll try again with the longer Purolator, this time using my centre stand. Maybe I'll have the required wiggle room then to screw on the longer filter.
BTW, I've decided to forego Rotella T6 in my F6B. I'm currently using Honda GN-4 10W-40, and then Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle synthetic for winter layup.
I just have trouble using non-motorcycle specific oil in an expensive engine and trans with a wet clutch. Yes, I used Rotella T6 in my Silverwing over 5 years, but it didn't have a wet clutch. I'm sure Rotella T6 would be just fine, as many are using it successfully, but I'll sleep better knowing true motorcycle specific oil is in the crankcase, not diesel engine oil.
It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will
Logically speaking with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby
If additional clearance is needed for oil/filter changes (?), remove the single left lower 5mm hex screw that attaches the lower fairing. Pull the plastic forward as required to access the filter and whatever. No need to remove the whole fairing. Use a filter wrench that fits the filter or slide a flexible strap over the filter.