George you may have your front rotors warped slightly. Look and see if they have an uneven "scuff" pattern on them. Sometimes that will tell the story.
George you may have your front rotors warped slightly. Look and see if they have an uneven "scuff" pattern on them. Sometimes that will tell the story.
Life's uncertain eat dessert first.
I.M.B.B.A. Technician II Certification.
Your bikes don't make ANY odd noises or feels when you apply LIGHT rear brake? Mine has done this since day one.
This is odd. I don't have any wobble or pulsing under hard braking... just an odd vibration with light rear brake. I'll look at the rotors again tomorrow but I just had them off the bike last weekend for a tire change and they looked ok to me
Ha! Noooooo... that thing is sittin in a box.
This is the best brakes on any motorcycle I've ever owned. Just a guesstimate but all things being equal I bet I can stop 25 to 30 percent shorter than my M109R.
I was just joking about the lever. Mine makes brake dragging noises most noticeable at around town speeds. Try to make some aggressive stops to see if the rotors are a bit glazed.
2013 F6b Deluxe Black
2000 Confederate Confederado
1951 Harley Davidson Hydraglide
" Truth is often deemed rude, blunt and to the point which is why so few make their friend " Freddy Hayler ..352-267-1553 Sanford, FLA Gutterman6000@Gmail.com
Not sure if they are exactly the same as the Wings if they are keep an eye on your left front pads. Many riders myself included have had them wear out twice as fast as the right side pads. 17 k for me. Some owners of Wings have replaced the lefts and when they wore out a second time it was time to replace both sides. I like them for stopping but 17k seemed a little short. They are easy as pie to change I did my own front and back, super easy.
After reading this I did not make it clear that this was my experience with my 12 Wing but I will keep my eye on the fronts on my 6!
The written description in post #2 is close, but not accurate. The rear pedal activates two outer pistons in the rear caliper and the center piston on both front calipers. The bake lever activates the 2 outside pistons on both front calipers. When the left front caliper is pressurized it rotates and activates the secondary master cylinder which then activates the rear center piston. There is a delay built into the system so that when stepping on the pedal the front does not activate immediately, and when using the brake lever the rears do not activate immediately. The magic happens in the proportion control valve and the delay valve. The picture in post #3 is accurate. I am fairly sure this is the fourth generation version of the Honda linked bakes.
The guy who invented the first wheel was an idiot -
the guy who invented the second one... he was the genius!
http://theringfinders.com/blog/Larry.Royal/
Had a problem with front brake locking up on me if I turned the handle bars fully to the left. . Told dealership about it before I took it in for the recall on the secondary master cyliinder replacement. After the work was completed I changed the rear and front tire on my 2013 F6B. When I put the front tire on and torqed to specs but before putting the calipers back on I spun the wheel to be sure it was running true. This is when I noticed that the right disc had run-out by a good 1/4 in. The left disc had no issue and ran true. Called dealership about problen and suggested to them that there must be a defect with the disc. There is just over 30,000 km on the bike and the disc is not worn past tolerence. The dealership called the tech line and they are still looking into whether that is covered under warranty. Apparently the tech said that he has never seen that problem before and is looking into it. I offered to take the bike up to the dealership so they could get a measurment of the run-out but was told that they had to wait for a response from the tech or they may not get paid for the work. I installed the caliper and of course the front tire has severe drag rotation caused by the warped disc.