TPMS... nothing but crap

[srt8-in-largo]

I decided to order a Mobiletron - PTO_VPC02A-LA4. They are out of black, so i am waiting on length to ship and shipping costs. unit was about 135. Apparently they used to sell external version.. only silver and black now. Silver in stock

Good deal Press; I hope that works out for ya and, please, let us know you and your dad's impressions of how it works.

The silver looks better than black to me; the grey buttons blend in a little better. Note that these sensors appear to be the type that install inside of the wheel with a steel band; no big deal at all, you'll just have to dismount the tire.

http://regitar.com/ecatalog/TPMS/2-w...roduct_id=3645

One comment, the steel band *may* interfere with the OEM valve stem; this stem has a fat rubber boot on the inside of the rim that sticks up right in the center of the wheel where the steel band would go. Sometimes these kits ship with a valve stem "bridge" that elevates the steel band up and over the fat rubber boot. If this kit doesn't have that, you may want to consider using a different (and better) valve stem.

I use the Milton Industries S409 which sits FLUSH on the inside of the rim and should not interfere with any steel bands for TPMS sensors. I'll post a pic tonight.

Dang, such the handy man you are. Should I put you on my short list for my house? Nah, I'm having a new home built in Mulberry/Lakeland.

Wow! That's fantastic John; I'd love to be able to do that someday. For now I'll just bring my fork to your house warming

[CoCoKola]

Good deal Press; I hope that works out for ya and, please, let us know you and your dad's impressions of how it works.

my dad?


Thanks for the info on the strap. It is the only way to order these now. I'll ask about the 'lift' over the valve stem. I saw the valve stem you mentioned, did you have to Dremel off the "T" from the rim to make it work, like the website says?

[srt8-in-largo]

my dad?


Thanks for the info on the strap. It is the only way to order these now. I'll ask about the 'lift' over the valve stem. I saw the valve stem you mentioned, did you have to Dremel off the "T" from the rim to make it work, like the website says?

Post #20... Father's day gift; or are YOU the father receiving this as a gift?

I did not dremel the "T"; this valve stem sits perfectly next to it with no interference at all.

It's a little hard to tell in the pics, but that fat rubber boot of the OEM stem in the top pic protrudes a fair bit above the surface of the rim... right in the middle where the strap goes. I'm pretty sure if you strapped this with no bridge, the strap would seal onto the boot and block air passage.

The bottom pic shows the Milton S409 after its' been tightened; the smaller steel boot pulls into the opening and sits just a tad below the rim surface. I *believe* you should be able to put a strap on this and not block the air passage... but you'll have to confirm that. If you still needed a bridge, it'd be easier to find one for this. If needed I'd check eBay for used TPMS sensors that come with one. You should be able to find one for $10 to $20.

[CoCoKola]

Cool thanx so much for the helpful tips. !!Yes, I am the father doah.

[CoCoKola]

I did not Dremel the "T"; this valve stem sits perfectly next to it with no interference at all.

It's a little hard to tell in the pics, but that fat rubber boot of the OEM stem in the top pic protrudes a fair bit above the surface of the rim... right in the middle where the strap goes. I'm pretty sure if you strapped this with no bridge, the strap would seal onto the boot and block air passage.

The bottom pic shows the Milton S409 after its' been tightened; the smaller steel boot pulls into the opening and sits just a tad below the rim surface. I *believe* you should be able to put a strap on this and not block the air passage... but you'll have to confirm that. If you still needed a bridge, it'd be easier to find one for this. If needed I'd check eBay for used TPMS sensors that come with one. You should be able to find one for $10 to $20.

So I checked with the manufacturer, it does include a valve protector:
Attachment 14385

Now for the question of a new valve stem - since I am going internal, I don't have to get one, but after thinking of the issues they cause, I have to take each tire off anyway, now is the time to upgrade. According to the value you recommended, they have this disclaimer:

HONDA MODEL SPECIFIC ISSUES:

EXCEPTION: 1988-2000 Honda GL1500 GoldWing & 2001-2008+ Honda GL1800 GoldWing, and all years Honda Rune: Not in stock form -- minor modification required.
Kudos to Mike at JBJ Cycles for pointing out this issue on the GL-series. Also note that on many years, rear valve will need to face left or be installed off-angle (70 - 75° instead of 90°) if installed pointed towards the right, to clear the rear caliper & caliper bleeder valve.
Honda created the wheels for it's GoldWing series with a T-support for the valve stem to address a valve clearance/collapse issue -- and stupidly enough, put the support to the left side (side stand-side), so owners can't readily get at their tire valves without placing the bike on the center stand. Taking a Dremel to cut/grind away this "T" support (see picture of T-support here) flush with the rest of the valve seat area will permit installation of our valves, as well as permitting you to face the valve in the opposite direction as stock (i.e. - permitting it to face to the right side, so pressures can easily be checked & air easily added while stopped on the sides and). If mounting facing the caliper, for many years' models, you must install the valve at an slightly off-angle to prevent it from contacting the caliper (70 - 75° to direction of rotation of the wheel, instead of 90° -- please check clearance before dismounting the wheel to ensure your placement will be feasible (we suggest use of a wax pencil to mark the acceptable seating angle).... which is interesting. I like the idea of having the valve stem pointing to the right side of the bike. I haven't checked, but easier access for adding air would be a HUGE plus to me. They say above you can mount it off-set so you solve the clearance issue, but being able to have the stem point towards the opposite side as the kick stand sounds like a winner.

Since I am not a mechanic, might be a lot to ask a shop to do, cost wise anyway.

thoughts? Again, thanks!

[srt8-in-largo]

Thanks for sharing that update re: valve protector! Good to know.

I'm no longer recommending that valve stem after seeing a comment by Hiflyer who was concerned about not being able to see and monitor the mounting nut. And he's absolutely right. I've seen MIL spec shock and vibe testing where fasteners have walked themselves out as if they're being actuated by invisible tools. Granted, MIL spec testing is a TON more harsh than what a valve stem will see, and in all likelihood it should be fine, but I still prefer a stem with the nut on the outside where I can check it.

At the very least use RED thread locker. This is all serious stuff that can get a guy killed if not done right. And btw, a 90 degree stem allows checking the air from both sides of the bike

Regarding the T support, if all the shop is doing is cutting it off, really, they should not charge you any more than a token amount; it would be fast and easy to grind it off.

[stevenolts]

I bought the FOBO Bike TPMS $100.00
It seems to be pretty good / works with bluetooth to your cell phone Android or I Phone

I have wanted to give a review but I have not had time. (I will give my quick impressions)

I ordered from a guy on the GL1800 forum. (I can get the name etc... if you want)

I like the system!

Positives

Inexpensive
I always ride with my cell phone
If I switched bikes I can move it easily
It seems accurate
If I remember to start the app after I turn my phone off it will warn me if pressure is low as I walk up to bike or sit watching TV in the living room.


Negatives:
I have to remember to start the app after my phone has been turned off (Maybe I can get an app to start the app)
It warns me when I am watching TV (ha ha)
It is only accurate when the tires are cold (no compensation for heat) so the warning will not help for slightly low tires on the road.

Steve

[CoCoKola]

I like this, I use my cell to manage my LEDs etc. I wish I had seen this an hour before. I just locked into purchasing the other solution. I can't find any information that says how often the updates are sent, but it does say it will alert if there is not a connection - which seems to be the problem with other units.

I bought the FOBO Bike TPMS $100.00
It seems to be pretty good / works with bluetooth to your cell phone Android or I Phone

I have wanted to give a review but I have not had time. (I will give my quick impressions)

I ordered from a guy on the GL1800 forum. (I can get the name etc... if you want)

I like the system!

Positives

Inexpensive
I always ride with my cell phone
If I switched bikes I can move it easily
It seems accurate
If I remember to start the app after I turn my phone off it will warn me if pressure is low as I walk up to bike or sit watching TV in the living room.


Negatives:
I have to remember to start the app after my phone has been turned off (Maybe I can get an app to start the app)
It warns me when I am watching TV (ha ha)
It is only accurate when the tires are cold (no compensation for heat) so the warning will not help for slightly low tires on the road.

Steve

[radi0chik]

I would LOVE to see something such as the Big Bike Parts 13-318 but have it be able to read the current internal TPMS that the Goldwings have. Right now, all it has is an idiot light that says it's low. It doesn't say whether its 1 or 20psi low. That would be nice to integrate into the F6 as well. Right now that's what I have on mine, and have no issues with it. I need to learn/figure out what language and how the sensors/receivers talk back and forth. It CAN'T be rocket science!

[srt8-in-largo]

I would LOVE to see something such as the Big Bike Parts 13-318 but have it be able to read the current internal TPMS that the Goldwings have. Right now, all it has is an idiot light that says it's low. It doesn't say whether its 1 or 20psi low. That would be nice to integrate into the F6 as well. Right now that's what I have on mine, and have no issues with it. I need to learn/figure out what language and how the sensors/receivers talk back and forth. It CAN'T be rocket science!

I guess you skipped post #26 above with this link

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?4...highlight=tpms

I have a home made prototype TPMS system with a fully functioning RF link between sensor and receiver module... and you're right, it's not rocket science. TPMS RF links operate in a specified frequency band defined by the FCC in the USA and their counterpart regulatory body internationally; the de facto standard frequencies are either 325 or 433 MHz. Most TPMS systems communicate using a frequency modulation technique called FSK, frequency shift keying. Basically, a baseband is chosen, either 325 or 433 MHz, and *slight* frequency deviations are used to transmit data that will be decoded as a digital "one" or a digital "zero" by the receiver. Once the receiver decodes the transmitted data and captures the stream of 1's and 0's, it can then digitally process the information and send it to an LCD screen, for instance, to display temperature and pressure data. That's all there is to it.

As for the Goldwing sensors, reverse engineering a receiver to work with them can be done, but it's a SIGNIFICANT task with no guarantee of success. I evaluated this option and concluded that it would be better overall to make my own sensors. This way, you have control of the software on both ends of the link which allows debugging and designing without relying on what little technical support Honda may provide (due to liability reasons they probably wouldn't provide any support).