Heading to the dealer to buy a filter ... but may ask them if they can do an on-the-spot oil change if it is not easy to do (moderately mechanically inclined - changed out a headlamp assembly on car, oil changes, brakes, that kinda thing).
I am asking quickly because if I did have them do it, I would need to stop and buy some Mobil 1 on the way.
Former Ride:
2013 F6B Standard, black; sold 7/2019
Latest Addition:
2016 Gold Wing Level 3, red; SCT transmission stuck in manual mode
2019 Miles:
7,900 as of 10/6
Very easy. Everything is at the front above the lower cowling. Oil filter can be a little tight getting in and out, depending on the one you use. Helps greatly if you have the center stand.
You can do this yourself, and save $80-$100.00 in labor costs. It's a no brainer.Originally Posted by VStarRider
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYdClODGZPg
21 years Army (retired)
...been everywhere, seen everything, done almost everything.
IBA 80537
Gotcha, thanks. No center stand, but I will figure it out
Former Ride:
2013 F6B Standard, black; sold 7/2019
Latest Addition:
2016 Gold Wing Level 3, red; SCT transmission stuck in manual mode
2019 Miles:
7,900 as of 10/6
According to the manual don't use the center stand put the bike on the side stand!! If you notice the drain plug is on the left side. So by putting the bike on the side stand and there by tilting the bike to that side it will drain much more efficiently and thoroughly. Those Honda engineers plan out everything.
Make sure you get a drain pan with low enough sides to allow you to easily slide it under the bike. Notice there is no jack or other tools required other than what's listed here.
If you use a Honda filter (and some others mfg's brands. ) there is a geared filter wrench that fits over the geared end of the filter that makes it very easy to remove even a tightly tightened filter. Cost about $12 bucks.
The whole job takes less then a half hour and most of that time is spent eating apple pie while you wait for the oil to drain, providing of course that you warmed the bike up before you start the draining.
You may want to also buy a magnetic drain plug to replace the original. It will collect any metal shaving out of the oil that may occur due to normal engine wear.
I also recommend a decent funnel to anyone with old shaky hands for the fill up!
If you can open a pickle bottle you can do the job and save a lot of money.
Also do not use automotive oil in your wing unless it is not energy saving and is rated for wet clutch use. Do a little research before you buy.
Yep, Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 on the way via Amazon Prime...
I'll change it this weekend. Looks easy according to those here, and the video.
Should I check anything else on the machine, other than oil level and tire air pressure, while doing the oil change?
~8,000 miles on it.
Former Ride:
2013 F6B Standard, black; sold 7/2019
Latest Addition:
2016 Gold Wing Level 3, red; SCT transmission stuck in manual mode
2019 Miles:
7,900 as of 10/6
At the end of the first post in this thread:
http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?9...Jul-2016/page2
is a chart that tells you what to check and when.
Clean your crankcase breather and inspect everything else!
Cheers,
Steve
My girls:
Isleen - 2014 F6BD
Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special
"Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
Ambrose Bierce
Done my first oil change on this bike last week, very easy
If you haven't already done so, check the level of the rear drive oil. Top off if needed but try and avoid auto GL-5 which has friction modifiers for limited slip diffs. Honda motorcycle GL-5 is fairly cheap.
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