Audio enhancement perma-grin style

[F6Pilot]

With further inspection of the tweeters under a magnifying glass, I simply could not identify a connection point. I assume the connections ran up through a pair of those holes but I can't confirm without completing dismantling the casing. I ended up locating some more HT25 components which arrived today.

Now I must decide if I try to pull the grill off of another tweeter, potentially creating the same disastrous/expensive result, or simply cut holes in the factory mesh grills and surface mount.

I additionally pulled the front end apart and got the wiring routed from the crossovers to the speaker pods. I mounted the crossovers to another slab of HDPE and plan to secure them under the right cubby cover.

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[CoCoKola]

With further inspection of the tweeters under a magnifying glass, I simply could not identify a connection point. I assume the connections ran up through a pair of those holes but I can't confirm without completing dismantling the casing. I ended up locating some more HT25 components which arrived today.

Now I must decide if I try to pull the grill off of another tweeter, potentially creating the same disastrous/expensive result, or simply cut holes in the factory mesh grills and surface mount.

I additionally pulled the front end apart and got the wiring routed from the crossovers to the speaker pods. I mounted the crossovers to another slab of HDPE and plan to secure them under the right cubby cover.

That was the approach I took. It seemed cheaper to source a replacement cover than mess with the tweeters. I was concerned about affecting the output as well. In any case, it sounds like you are getting close to getting this wrapped up!

One item I also added was the boom mat to help seal the compartment. I ordered both the 5.25 and 6.5 - the 6.5 had enough room for the magnet and an A/B comparison did seem improved / less resonance / tighter bass.

Cheers!

[F6Pilot]

Great tip, I will get some boom mats ordered as well. Tonight I pulled the back end apart and got wires routed from the crossover cubby back to the left saddlebag where the amp resides.


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Now I also get to do a lot of reading to determine how I connect the amp to the speakers and then how/where I pull signal from the factory head unit. Fun....

[willtill]

Jeff, can you post larger pictures? Am interested in the pictorial details of your install... but the thumbnails are not adequate for viewing such.

[F6Pilot]

Will, I couldn't edit the original posts so let me know if these are any better. The site keeps downsizing the files to around 20k.

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[willtill]

That's a little better. FYI - You can post larger sizes (embed them) using Tinypic.com.... that's what I use.

[F6Pilot]

I just pushed everything up to a Photobucket account. Let me figure out how to embed these things properly and I will update everything later tonight.

[CoCoKola]

Great tip, I will get some boom mats ordered as well. Tonight I pulled the back end apart and got wires routed from the crossover cubby back to the left saddlebag where the amp resides.


Attachment 24973Attachment 24974

Now I also get to do a lot of reading to determine how I connect the amp to the speakers and then how/where I pull signal from the factory head unit. Fun....

I used posilocks or positaps (depending on your preference.) Make sure you get the 20-22 gauge for the audio in -> your RCA cable (twisted type only!) used with shrink-wrap for each cable PLUS a 1.5-2" shrink-wrap to bundle the entire set of cables. Seems the best way to ensure a water-proof and vibration-proof connection.


The service manual has the wiring diagram in the back, you just tap off the head unit where it connects to the factory amp. I just cut each cable (Brown is battery positive switched I believe, so be careful of the two 20 amp circuits!) and used the posilocks for the 8 connections and I pulled the stock amplifier to reduce the pull on the battery - reduce weight. You could use just the front, but I wanted the rear to use as input to the subwoofer, and you can use the fader to balance fronts from the rear. With the Audison, it has its own controller, so it is maybe less important.

Also, note that I used the switched power from these Brown wires for the ACC on for my Audison. I would not do it this way again and instead use the acc taps from the battery accessory terminal.

EDITED: added additional info and corrected spelling errors.

[F6Pilot]

Let's give this a try...

[F6Pilot]