I had it bad on my two previous full Wings. But, the F6 B has never had it. I installed a SuperBrace early in my ownership. Dont know if it has helped keep the wobble away or not but I did not have a fork brace on the Wings and they were terrible. I have 17000 miles on my front tire and am just now beginning to see some cupping, still no wobble. I think I may get 20000 out of the front tire which I think is great.
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My F6B knock on wood is more stable than any bike that I've ever rode, even at 80 -90 with no hands mine continues down the road. I have never felt the wobble and I don't have a fork brace installed. What type of Wind shield do you have on this F6B. I think there are a lot of things that can cause the wobble. I installed last week the brake and caliper covers and it actually changed the dynamics of the bike. We need to be aware of the things that we add and what the effect will be.
My Goldwing has had the wobble since I purchased it with 2,800 miles. It is mechanically 100% stock.Originally Posted by unsub
I replaced a cover or two with chrome, but they have no mechanical function, strictly for aesthetics.
I have dealt with it for the last 3.5 years. Just like Dickie, it's during deceleration from 45mph going down to 35mph
Successful people build each other up. They motivate, inspire and push each other. Unsuccessful people just hate, blame and complain.
I have no real facts to go off of but 'something I thought I read somewhere,,,'
Did Honda change the guides (make 'em larger/longer) in the F6B's forks, or in the 2nd Gens as a whole?
(I need to quit going off memory,,, that's how rumors start/continue,,,)
I believe the 6 is lowered slightly than the full wing,,, 'Different' in that sense,,,
I've read of the GL wobble, but Dickie is the 1st I've heard of with a 6 that wobbles.
Hmm,,, mine isn't in the sense that very little shift in 'anything' will make it change direction.
I have to be pretty still to 'free-hand' the 6,,,
My last bike (Stratoliner) was very prone to go in a straight line, but it required a little pressure on the 'outside' grip to get it down in a corner.
Rode a friends Street Glide last weekend with some 'mild' Ape hangers. Granted, I didn't get hot in heavy in ANY corner w/my friends bike, but It was the opposite in that it took a little pressure on the inside grip to keep from going too far (down) when going into in the corner. It also took mostly upper body action to steer where as my 6 responds with minimal lower body input and 'pretty much nada/neutral' on the bars.
Don't get me wrong, counter-steer/proper bar input is critical, but IMHO,,,,, both the SG and my old Strat were a bit more forgiving when it comes to staying in a straight line w/o hands on the bars, and more effort to instigate / hold corners than the 6,,,
The only thing I know that is different from the Wing is the lower triple clamp.
I also feel the F6B is a little more difficult to keep in a straight line without your hands on the bars. I feel this is because the cylinders are offset which changes the weight ratio from side to side and also because of the torque of the driveshaft.
No Dickie…should be the same……mw F6 shook one time not long ago….everything has to be right, at least for me to get …and for me it always starts when the front tire has some wear…H.D. or GL…they act the same!
" Truth is often deemed rude, blunt and to the point which is why so few make their friend " Freddy Hayler ..352-267-1553 Sanford, FLA Gutterman6000@Gmail.com
Which brings us to another potential factor. Pressure.
Cannot overstress the importance of an accurate Gauge. I have 2-3 'pencil' gauges and (3) dial gauges now.
Story goes like this:
Bought my 2nd dial gauge specifically for MC applications. (Straight stems on the previous bike were easier to check with a dial type w/short hose and 90 degree chuck.) Gauge had very good reviews,,, Long story short, I recently bought a 'stubby' dial gauge for my lil sister to carry in her car. Noticed it read 4 lbs higher than my 'highly rated' MC gauge. Compared the MC gauge to my 'assortment' of gauges,,, yep, my MC gauge was reading 4 lbs LOW, causing over-inflation.
Pressures:
Honda says 36F 41R. Many here swear by 40/40.
I was inadvertently running 44/44 up until a month ago,,, the ride felt like bias ply tires,,,
A true 40/40 was a much better ride. (No sheet Sherlock!!! LOL!!)
Experimenting w/ 38F/40R now. The 38 takes a little of the 'expansion joint jolt' outta the front.
Moral of this story??? Cross-check yer gauges!!!
Checked my gauges this morning. Every one of them gives a different reading. So while I thought the pressure is correct. Now I have no idea? Is there an accurate gauge?First going to play with pressures and see if it matters.Then I'll go from there.............DickieWhich brings us to another potential factor. Pressure.
Cannot overstress the importance of an accurate Gauge. I have 2-3 'pencil' gauges and (3) dial gauges now.
Story goes like this:
Bought my 2nd dial gauge specifically for MC applications. (Straight stems on the previous bike were easier to check with a dial type w/short hose and 90 degree chuck.) Gauge had very good reviews,,, Long story short, I recently bought a 'stubby' dial gauge for my lil sister to carry in her car. Noticed it read 4 lbs higher than my 'highly rated' MC gauge. Compared the MC gauge to my 'assortment' of gauges,,, yep, my MC gauge was reading 4 lbs LOW, causing over-inflation.
Pressures:
Honda says 36F 41R. Many here swear by 40/40.
I was inadvertently running 44/44 up until a month ago,,, the ride felt like bias ply tires,,,
A true 40/40 was a much better ride. (No sheet Sherlock!!! LOL!!)
Experimenting w/ 38F/40R now. The 38 takes a little of the 'expansion joint jolt' outta the front.
Moral of this story??? Cross-check yer gauges!!!
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